My goodness, I've just had the longest two days! Both yesterday and today have been quite action-packed, so I've barely had time to sleep let alone blog. So, finally, here is my update.
Yesterday was a full museum day. We were covering anywhere between Louis XIII and Louis XV in terms of both architectural and interior decorative styles. Lumped all together, the Rococo, or as preferred term in France, the Rocaille style. First we visited the "hotel", meaning private palace or chateau, of the Prince and Princess de Soubise, which was later the house of the Guise family, who were very influential in French history, especially the Revolution. We were able to see the rooms of the hotel and hear the magical story of the Princess of Soubise.
After the hotel, we headed in the afternoon to a rather odd museum, the Museum of the Hunt and Nature. It was...weird. The curator that gave us a tour was very nice, and had really great explanations for the layout of the museum, but a museum dedicated to hunting seemed a little out of the norm for kids who spend half the week in the Louvre. Still, the museum was really interactive, and did have some beautiful pieces.
Thirdly, we went to another museum, the Museum Cognacq Jay. It's a lovely little museum with a collection of 18th century stuff. By stuff, I mean paintings, furniture, porcelains, jeweled boxes, tapestries, etc. The house that the museum occupies is also a 16th century building, so all the rooms and hallways are quite cozy. While it was a bit too hot and too late in the day after a lot of class for most of us, we had the cutest tour guide, and the pieces were really wonderful! It was a perfect little museum to go explore by yourself one afternoon, especially if you know anything about 18th century art, or just really like it. To me, the inspirations behind the styles and designs is fascinating! Who knew that the main inspiration behind our porcelain chatchkis was from China? And that early on?
So, in the evening when we finally made it home in the sweltering heat of the little-air-conditioned Paris, we all nearly collapsed.
And then today was THE Day. The big day that we had been warned about and prepared for since we arrived. We went to Versailles today. We started out very early, leaving the train station for Versailled at 8:30 AM. We finished the inside of the museum by 11:30, and were outside most of the rest of the day. We had audioguides inside, and lectures for the facade, the gardens, the Petit Trainon, and the Queen's Estate and Hamlet. The palace was pretty much unbelievable, like everyone always says, and I remembered some, but not much, from the first time I had been ten years ago. I do have to admit that everything seemed much smaller and let mind-blowing than my memories, but it could very well be my gain in experience and what I have to compare it to. The gardens I remembered quite well. We explored just about every corner of the property today, mainly because we had two professors with us instead of one, so it wasn't a usual day. The professor we've had for the last three weeks taught in the morning and through lunch. And our second, new, professor joined us and taught in the afternoon and evening. She is going to finish out the program, now that we are moving into the modern era of French history. Thankfully our cute TA will stay will us the whole time! :)
The palace was amazing in not only its sheer size, but the variation from one area to another. Between the finely decorated, ritualized bedroom of King Louis, to the fake Norman picturesque village created by Marie Antionette, Versailles really is like a whole world encapsulated. I can understand the people, and even courtiers, resentment and feelings that led to the revolution. On the other hand, it would be amazing to live like that!
Anyways, now that I have a bit of a tan (even after sunscreen) and very tired feet, I will retire for the night and attempt to catch up on my daily journals. Tomorrow we are off to the Louvre again for some Neoclassicism and I know we are looking at Delacroix paintings. Everything seems to be going so fast all of a sudden! I think this week we covered five centuries. Yikes! After class I'm headed to Mont Saint Michel, to try once again to get out of Paris for the weekend. The group is going to Nice, so even if I miss my trains again, at least it will be peaceful here. I'm very excited for Mont Saint-Michel. I remember (I think) really vividly Mt. St. Michel and thought it was stunning last time, so we'll see my new impression. I can't believe I only have two weeks of class left! I really can't. I am, however, starting to feel that I'm actually in Paris. It's beginning to be real for most of us. It's actually almost feeling like home, and we've begun calling the apartment/hotel "home". Navigation isn't a problem, we all can now more or less get by with our French, and we all have our favorite places. I have to say that I don't really want to leave Paris. Like, ever. I'm thinking going for a doctorate in art history that involves French art would be just to my liking! We'll see...
But for now, bonsoir! Here are some of today's photos and also photos of cool stuff I saw yesterday:
7.01.2010
6.30.2010
Decided to blog early in the morning today instead of at night, because apparently there's a limit to the amount of people that can use the hotel's internet, and last night we reached it. So, back to my old habits of getting most things done before anyone else even wakes up. I think this is the only hour in Paris when it's quiet. Ok, so here's yesterday's news.
Yesterday we started the day at famous Les Invalides, a complex for veterans where Napoleon's tomb is located. We didn't see the tomb, but we did have a lecture about the Baroque facade and dome of the church. Then we were able to visit the other side of the church, called the soldiers' church, as well as the courtyard that is surrounded by the hospital and other buildings, like refectories and living quarters. Although smaller and of a different architectural style, the soldiers' church reminded me a lot of the church at the US Naval Academy. I guess it's the drama of it, with the flags all lining the nave.
After Les Invalides, we went somewhere that I don't think maybe college art history classes get to attend for class. We went to the Yves Saint Laurent retrospective show at the Petit Palais. It was pretty much unbelievable. If I thought there was drama at the church, well I certainly found more of it at the YSL show! The exhibition was beautiful. They had all of the dresses and suits on manicans that were in appropriate poses, all decked out with the gloves and hat and shoes. And, of course, the outfits were often so gorgeous, we would stand flabbergasted in front of it for a few minutes. Made me want to both experiment with making clothing, and throw my own haute couture costume ball! I really wanted the catalogue from the show but it was a huge catalogue (but only 28 euros!!) so I decided I really couldn't carry it home, and I'd have to ship it. So I got a small coloring book with some of his sketches in it instead. All in all, the show was very exciting, and an interesting change from the tradition museum format of seeing art. We were even given the choice to write about the show for our daily journals. I guess I should put on my to-do list now recording the new season of Project Runway.
After class, I came back and finally had to do laundry. Then, my roomies, a friend in the program, and I all made a really weird dinner. We had something resembling quesadillas, and homemade guacamole (without lime or lemon..) and for dessert we had banana slices with dripped-over Nutella as well as this nutella, breadcrumbs, and peach concoction (dessert was what I made). Anyways, it was a fun day! I think from here to the end of the week, the days will be longer and somewhat oddly scheduled. Today we have class from 10-11 and then from 2:30 to about 6:00. Hmmm, have to figure out what to do in between. So, I'll try to get on tonight to blog, but depending on how late class goes and the demand for the ethernet cord, we'll see.
Enjoy your day, everyone! I know I will! (I'll try to post photos tonight.)
Yesterday we started the day at famous Les Invalides, a complex for veterans where Napoleon's tomb is located. We didn't see the tomb, but we did have a lecture about the Baroque facade and dome of the church. Then we were able to visit the other side of the church, called the soldiers' church, as well as the courtyard that is surrounded by the hospital and other buildings, like refectories and living quarters. Although smaller and of a different architectural style, the soldiers' church reminded me a lot of the church at the US Naval Academy. I guess it's the drama of it, with the flags all lining the nave.
After Les Invalides, we went somewhere that I don't think maybe college art history classes get to attend for class. We went to the Yves Saint Laurent retrospective show at the Petit Palais. It was pretty much unbelievable. If I thought there was drama at the church, well I certainly found more of it at the YSL show! The exhibition was beautiful. They had all of the dresses and suits on manicans that were in appropriate poses, all decked out with the gloves and hat and shoes. And, of course, the outfits were often so gorgeous, we would stand flabbergasted in front of it for a few minutes. Made me want to both experiment with making clothing, and throw my own haute couture costume ball! I really wanted the catalogue from the show but it was a huge catalogue (but only 28 euros!!) so I decided I really couldn't carry it home, and I'd have to ship it. So I got a small coloring book with some of his sketches in it instead. All in all, the show was very exciting, and an interesting change from the tradition museum format of seeing art. We were even given the choice to write about the show for our daily journals. I guess I should put on my to-do list now recording the new season of Project Runway.
After class, I came back and finally had to do laundry. Then, my roomies, a friend in the program, and I all made a really weird dinner. We had something resembling quesadillas, and homemade guacamole (without lime or lemon..) and for dessert we had banana slices with dripped-over Nutella as well as this nutella, breadcrumbs, and peach concoction (dessert was what I made). Anyways, it was a fun day! I think from here to the end of the week, the days will be longer and somewhat oddly scheduled. Today we have class from 10-11 and then from 2:30 to about 6:00. Hmmm, have to figure out what to do in between. So, I'll try to get on tonight to blog, but depending on how late class goes and the demand for the ethernet cord, we'll see.
Enjoy your day, everyone! I know I will! (I'll try to post photos tonight.)
6.28.2010
Today started the third week of my class today. That means comes Wednesday, I'll already be half-way through the program! It totally doesn't feel like I've already been here two weeks, it's crazy!
Today was my second visit (this trip) to the Louvre, and the special entrance we get to enter, away from the crowds, has still not gotten old. It's pretty fun flashing my laminated pass with my picture on it. The theme this morning was French Baroque painting, namely Rubens, Poussin, Vouet, and Le Brun. Renaissance and Baroque is good and all that, but after class I stole away to the Flemish painting galleries. I definitely like the Flemish stuff better, but I get why we learn about the Italian and French Renaissance...Oh man, the paintings were gorgeous, though. I took photos of them for future inspiration for my first animated film or something for set design. The buildings kinda look like Snow White. I sat and sketched but replicating oil paintings with a black pen doesn't turn out so well.
I had a bit of a fright with the escalator in the Louvre however. One was broken and closed off, and they had people walk both ways on the same thin escalator, which is in the first place hanging between the floors with no side wall! My love of museums and art was almost beaten by my fear of heights and escalators today! I'll even include a photo to show you how tall this thing was.
Anyways, not really anything else today. I came back and relaxed and went shopping for groceries. Off to somewhere tomorrow, but no idea what it is. I just know how to get there, so I'll let you all know what I find out! Going to try to drive the party out of my room soon so I can get to sleep!
Bonsoir!
Today was my second visit (this trip) to the Louvre, and the special entrance we get to enter, away from the crowds, has still not gotten old. It's pretty fun flashing my laminated pass with my picture on it. The theme this morning was French Baroque painting, namely Rubens, Poussin, Vouet, and Le Brun. Renaissance and Baroque is good and all that, but after class I stole away to the Flemish painting galleries. I definitely like the Flemish stuff better, but I get why we learn about the Italian and French Renaissance...Oh man, the paintings were gorgeous, though. I took photos of them for future inspiration for my first animated film or something for set design. The buildings kinda look like Snow White. I sat and sketched but replicating oil paintings with a black pen doesn't turn out so well.
I had a bit of a fright with the escalator in the Louvre however. One was broken and closed off, and they had people walk both ways on the same thin escalator, which is in the first place hanging between the floors with no side wall! My love of museums and art was almost beaten by my fear of heights and escalators today! I'll even include a photo to show you how tall this thing was.
Anyways, not really anything else today. I came back and relaxed and went shopping for groceries. Off to somewhere tomorrow, but no idea what it is. I just know how to get there, so I'll let you all know what I find out! Going to try to drive the party out of my room soon so I can get to sleep!
Bonsoir!
6.26.2010
Today was a bit of a relaxed resting day. With a friend from home here, it felt a little more familiar today, which was comforting. She makes me realize that my French is better than I give credit, too! After a slow morning, begun with fresh "pan chocolat", chocolate croissants in English, we decided to try visiting this market we had read about in the North of the city. The market wasn't very interesting, a lot of used men's dress shoes and old furniture, but we headed to the Pompidou Center. We saw this crazy building yesterday, but didn't have the time to go inside and explore. The facade of the building looks like a series of clear tubes stuck together to make a tall building. A bit unexpected, the inside is both a movie theatre and the Modern Art Museum of Paris. We didn't pay for tickets to any of the different shows going on, but we did get to see this cool installation piece. It was designed for children, where they could make structures out of cheap material, like card board or wood, and put them anywhere on/in the building. So on the outside, there were wooden little house-like forms that were perched precariously in different corners and niches between the clear tubes.
After the Pompidou Center, we walked home along a food street market again, stopping for Italian food (which seems to be almost as prevalent as it is at home) and gelato. While my feet are throbbing a little, the food was totally worth the walk back. The gelato might not be as good as in Italy, but it still definitely beats the stuff in the States. Today I tried Banana with Coconut. Tasted like some kind of fruit cocktail. It was "tres bon"! Still holding onto my self-discipline for the candy booth set up everyday right outside the apartment. Tomorrow, too, I'll have to do some work for class, but I will surely be enjoying another day of no planned meeting times or set activities! Not that I'm anything but thrilled to be going back to the Louvre on Monday morning...
Au revoir pour aujourd'hui! (Goodbye for today!)
After the Pompidou Center, we walked home along a food street market again, stopping for Italian food (which seems to be almost as prevalent as it is at home) and gelato. While my feet are throbbing a little, the food was totally worth the walk back. The gelato might not be as good as in Italy, but it still definitely beats the stuff in the States. Today I tried Banana with Coconut. Tasted like some kind of fruit cocktail. It was "tres bon"! Still holding onto my self-discipline for the candy booth set up everyday right outside the apartment. Tomorrow, too, I'll have to do some work for class, but I will surely be enjoying another day of no planned meeting times or set activities! Not that I'm anything but thrilled to be going back to the Louvre on Monday morning...
Au revoir pour aujourd'hui! (Goodbye for today!)
Yesterday I experienced a little bit of travelers chaos again. I had planned on picking up a friend from the airport and taking a train out to Mont Saint Michel and Saint Malo this weekend. Well, her flight was delayed because it was overbooked by forty people, and then the trains were somewhat slower than usual into the city (is the strike in Paris over yet?) so needless to say, we did not make our train. All the other trains were full to get out there, so I decided after a little bit of parental counsel, to abandon the trip entirely and go next weekend. While it did cost me an arm and a leg to cancel my train tickets because I didn't cancel them early enough, the good news is that I was able to change my hotel reservation from this Friday to next Saturday. This makes it easier too, because I can stay in one city for the weekend if I want, not have to worry about trains once I'm there.
Class yesterday was pretty fun. We had a walking tour with a guest lecturer around the various squares and gardens and bridges near the Seine. It was really interesting to learn about the monarchy demands on architecture in the city, and how that created a unified mindset as well as facade for the Parisian citizens. What was even more fun, though, was that our tour guide looked scarily similar to Noah Wyle, the actor who played Dr. John Carter on ER. I've been watching this show through Netflix straight through the seasons, so I've seen a lot of Noah Wyle, and this man had the same features, movements, etc. Except he spoke english with a french accent. Anyways, I got a lot of amusement out of the doppelganger effect. And thankfully, the last three days we've had perfect weather!
Not sure what we'll do today. I guess play it by ear, and enjoy the lack of planning...I'll let you know!
Class yesterday was pretty fun. We had a walking tour with a guest lecturer around the various squares and gardens and bridges near the Seine. It was really interesting to learn about the monarchy demands on architecture in the city, and how that created a unified mindset as well as facade for the Parisian citizens. What was even more fun, though, was that our tour guide looked scarily similar to Noah Wyle, the actor who played Dr. John Carter on ER. I've been watching this show through Netflix straight through the seasons, so I've seen a lot of Noah Wyle, and this man had the same features, movements, etc. Except he spoke english with a french accent. Anyways, I got a lot of amusement out of the doppelganger effect. And thankfully, the last three days we've had perfect weather!
Not sure what we'll do today. I guess play it by ear, and enjoy the lack of planning...I'll let you know!
6.24.2010
Here is the promised tale of yesterday and today:
Yesterday was the first day that we got to visit the Louvre! I had been before ten years ago, and still had an impression of what it would be like, and of course, like most things in France, outdid my memory of it. Besides the photo-shoots we just HAD to have, as we are wild young adults and American tourists, it was especially fun to enter through this more private entrance to the side. Our program buys us Louvre passes that allow us unlimited entrance for a year. I think this means I have to come back before next July! :)
Anyways, after a long tackle with the Metro and getting everyone in the group to the desired meeting spot, we saw the fountain of the innocents, the several facades of the Louvre, and then Medieval "decorative arts" (so awesome!) and some of the French Renaissance collection with a tour by a curator of Renaissance painting for the Louvre. How cool?!
After class I, as is becoming typical, took leave from the big group scene, and explored by myself. After exiting the Louvre the wrong way, I stumbled upon the Tuileries garden complex that was stunning! So far, Paris is definitely the best city in which to get lost! Once I figured out where I was, I strolled along the Seine, and over this wonderful bridge, until I got to the Shakespeare and Co. bookstore. It was the first day that has been truly summer-y, so I took my time.
For anyone who doesn't know, Shakespeare and Co. opened in 1919 as an English language bookstore, and was the hangout of many famous writers, and famous for the publishing of books that neither the UK or US will publish for censorship reasons, the most famous being Ulysses by James Joyce. It was closed during the German occupation, and then re-opened in its current location, and continued to be a famous hangout of intellectuals since. This is just the cutest bookstore! It's cramped, with books EVERYWHERE. I didn't believe the reviews. Haven't checked out the library on the second floor yet, but when we go to the Louvre again on Monday, I am definitely going to stop by again. Maybe bring a book to sit and read. Later yesterday I actually went back again because there was a book-signing by Yann Martel, the author of Life of Pi. Got my signed copy, my Shakespeare and Co. famous, Zero Kilometer stamp, and got to hear Yann Martel speak. Great day yesterday! On the walk home in the afternoon, I passed another cool market that went on for blocks and blocks!
Ok, on to today. Today we took a field trip out of the city to Chateau de Chantilly. It was breathtaking. We had two tours that went through the house and explained each room, which were fine. The place was amazing, and I felt a terrible urge to look around myself and open all the locked doors. The chateau looked just like what I imagine the scenery of a Jane Austen novel to look like. There was a moat around the place and gardens behind. There was even a little hamlet behind the gardens with little cottages as a garden for the rich residents to play at farming. There was also a "cottage" for a poet who hid there while in trouble with the French government. The place was definitely larger than my entire house. Today felt like a grown-up field trip. We spent all day wandering this place, walking the gardens, and laying out on the grass. There was also an incredible collection of prints and paintings we were able to study.
Still, what made today especially fun was that I got to spend a significant length of time with our TA, who is a grad student at the University of Picardie in Paris. He's explained to me his thesis, and has since pointed out every piece he's been studying. He's better than any tour guide. And it's exciting to listen to because you can see what joy he gets out of seeing something and explaining it. Plus, he's insanely cute. :) Unlike most of the kids on the trip, who consider themselves on vacation and therefore "checked-out", our TA seems to really enjoy having interesting, intellectual discussions. Because of this, I find myself sticking closer to him during class, as he will point out extra stuff my professor doesn't mention. I'm definitely going to have to keep in touch with him after the program!
After Chantilly, which was already about 6 pm, I decided to go for a taste of home, and made what I like to call GGC. It stands for Grandma Grilled Cheese, and it's grilled cheese made perfectly, with lots of butter! Learned it from one of my Grandmas, and it has taken me a lot of tries to even come close. I cooked it perfectly, but unfortunately I couldn't find American cheese (obviously. who else would eat that stuff?) but I substituted Holland cheese and it was still pretty amazing. Felt good after a long day of walking.
Tomorrow I leave for Mont-Saint-Michel and Saint-Malo. The best friend is flying in from NY tomorrow, and we're going to spend the weekend together on vacation. Should be really fun, and peaceful without my roommates! I may or may not be able to post on here, but if I don't, I'll try to catch up during the week. Sorry for the insanely long post! Hope it hasn't been too hard to get through. Writing journals, and off for a new adventure tomorrow!
Bon soir!
Yesterday was the first day that we got to visit the Louvre! I had been before ten years ago, and still had an impression of what it would be like, and of course, like most things in France, outdid my memory of it. Besides the photo-shoots we just HAD to have, as we are wild young adults and American tourists, it was especially fun to enter through this more private entrance to the side. Our program buys us Louvre passes that allow us unlimited entrance for a year. I think this means I have to come back before next July! :)
Anyways, after a long tackle with the Metro and getting everyone in the group to the desired meeting spot, we saw the fountain of the innocents, the several facades of the Louvre, and then Medieval "decorative arts" (so awesome!) and some of the French Renaissance collection with a tour by a curator of Renaissance painting for the Louvre. How cool?!
After class I, as is becoming typical, took leave from the big group scene, and explored by myself. After exiting the Louvre the wrong way, I stumbled upon the Tuileries garden complex that was stunning! So far, Paris is definitely the best city in which to get lost! Once I figured out where I was, I strolled along the Seine, and over this wonderful bridge, until I got to the Shakespeare and Co. bookstore. It was the first day that has been truly summer-y, so I took my time.
For anyone who doesn't know, Shakespeare and Co. opened in 1919 as an English language bookstore, and was the hangout of many famous writers, and famous for the publishing of books that neither the UK or US will publish for censorship reasons, the most famous being Ulysses by James Joyce. It was closed during the German occupation, and then re-opened in its current location, and continued to be a famous hangout of intellectuals since. This is just the cutest bookstore! It's cramped, with books EVERYWHERE. I didn't believe the reviews. Haven't checked out the library on the second floor yet, but when we go to the Louvre again on Monday, I am definitely going to stop by again. Maybe bring a book to sit and read. Later yesterday I actually went back again because there was a book-signing by Yann Martel, the author of Life of Pi. Got my signed copy, my Shakespeare and Co. famous, Zero Kilometer stamp, and got to hear Yann Martel speak. Great day yesterday! On the walk home in the afternoon, I passed another cool market that went on for blocks and blocks!
Ok, on to today. Today we took a field trip out of the city to Chateau de Chantilly. It was breathtaking. We had two tours that went through the house and explained each room, which were fine. The place was amazing, and I felt a terrible urge to look around myself and open all the locked doors. The chateau looked just like what I imagine the scenery of a Jane Austen novel to look like. There was a moat around the place and gardens behind. There was even a little hamlet behind the gardens with little cottages as a garden for the rich residents to play at farming. There was also a "cottage" for a poet who hid there while in trouble with the French government. The place was definitely larger than my entire house. Today felt like a grown-up field trip. We spent all day wandering this place, walking the gardens, and laying out on the grass. There was also an incredible collection of prints and paintings we were able to study.
Still, what made today especially fun was that I got to spend a significant length of time with our TA, who is a grad student at the University of Picardie in Paris. He's explained to me his thesis, and has since pointed out every piece he's been studying. He's better than any tour guide. And it's exciting to listen to because you can see what joy he gets out of seeing something and explaining it. Plus, he's insanely cute. :) Unlike most of the kids on the trip, who consider themselves on vacation and therefore "checked-out", our TA seems to really enjoy having interesting, intellectual discussions. Because of this, I find myself sticking closer to him during class, as he will point out extra stuff my professor doesn't mention. I'm definitely going to have to keep in touch with him after the program!
After Chantilly, which was already about 6 pm, I decided to go for a taste of home, and made what I like to call GGC. It stands for Grandma Grilled Cheese, and it's grilled cheese made perfectly, with lots of butter! Learned it from one of my Grandmas, and it has taken me a lot of tries to even come close. I cooked it perfectly, but unfortunately I couldn't find American cheese (obviously. who else would eat that stuff?) but I substituted Holland cheese and it was still pretty amazing. Felt good after a long day of walking.
Tomorrow I leave for Mont-Saint-Michel and Saint-Malo. The best friend is flying in from NY tomorrow, and we're going to spend the weekend together on vacation. Should be really fun, and peaceful without my roommates! I may or may not be able to post on here, but if I don't, I'll try to catch up during the week. Sorry for the insanely long post! Hope it hasn't been too hard to get through. Writing journals, and off for a new adventure tomorrow!
Bon soir!
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